Review: Why does iDen & Quanjude Have a Michelin Star?

Lukewarm slices of Peking duck at Quanjude in Vancouver

Have you eaten at iDen & Quanjude Beijing Duck House in Vancouver?

I am still trying to comprehend why this place is the only Chinese restaurant in the city that has a Michelin star -- for the past three years.

Duck soup with seaweed and tofu cubes

This location, across the street from City Hall, is affiliated with the original one in the Chinese capital. That one is considered a "time-honoured brand", with pictures of famous people from Premier Zhou Enlai serving the signature roast duck to American Secretary of State Henry Kissinger, and toasting President Richard Nixon. There's also a picture of superstar pianist Lang Lang in a group photo with staff.

The hospitality here has well-dressed staff in uniforms, wearing headsets and being very polite to customers transports them back to China, where diners are king. The first time I visited over two years ago, the manager was in a tuxedo brandishing a tablet to take orders.

Originally when the restaurant opened, the price of the menu was so outrageous that many stayed away; there is so much competition in the city for Chinese food, there is no reason why one must eat at Quanjude.

Beef ribs with mushrooms

So the restaurant changed tact and started offering memberships, where members can dine on a set menu for a relatively reasonable price. That time I went when the manager was in a tux, the food, and in particular ingredients were hardly impressive, like jellyfish head with cucumber, and tofu chopped into perfect cubes in a duck soup. You can also finish your meal with a cappucino. Whatever happened to serving premium tea?

While the duck was sliced in front of us table side, it was bizarre that the set menu is portioned for two diners, a very Western concept for a Chinese restaurant, where it is typically family style with a lazy Susan on a round table. Quanjude doesn't have many round tables, they are all rectangular, another strange way of eating Chinese food.

Today I was invited to Quanjude for lunch (by a member), and we managed to be seated at a round table! What was also interesting was seeing the place was pretty full despite the pouring rain. Perhaps the members liked the underground parking and snagged all the free "iDen" parking spots.

 

The highly prized skin eaten with sugar

This time the food quality improved. There was braised beef ribs (Korean galbi cuts) with mushrooms, and stir-fried Romaine lettuce which were pretty good, as well as kaufu or gluten cubes with mushrooms as an appetiser.

We were also treated to an extra dish of prawns covered in a lime green sauce that turned out to be watered down wasabi.

The main event, Peking duck, was not served table side; instead it was already sliced in the kitchen probably much earlier in advance because it was lukewarm at best. Even the slice of prized skin that we dipped in brown sugar was not warm either.

To make up for it, the steamed thin wrappers were hot, but the portion of duck slices was overwhelming based on a portion for two people. Why not just give the table half a duck to share? We had lots of leftovers. Same with the beef.

Prawns covered in a wasabi sauce

Strangely our plates were not replaced when our dessert of cubed jelly with water chestnut and osmanthus arrived; we had no choice but to eat it on a plate covered in savoury sauces.

Again I wonder, why this place is awarded a Michelin star every year. How does it deserve this prestigious accolade? The portions are Western style but the quality is hardly worth raving about. There are many other places in Vancouver like Dynasty and Chang'An that serve roast duck. The presentation at Quanjude might be more refined, but it's been sitting in the kitchen drying out before it is served to diners.

Giving the Michelin star to Quanjude reflects on the judgment of the inspectors who don't seem to understand and appreciate what good Chinese cooking is, especially in Vancouver. Surely after having evaluated Chinese restaurants in Hong Kong for years they would be just as discerning here?

Dessert of jelly with water chesnut, osmanthus

iDen & Quanjude Beijing Duck House, 2808 Cambie Street, Vancouver, BC. Tel: (236) 477 7777