Hong Kong's A Symphony of Lights Bids Farewell

The 15-minute light show at the HKCEC

I was surprised to discover Hong Kong's 8pm "A Symphony of Lights" show has been running for 22 years! No wonder it was... not good.

At the appointed time, there's lasers and lights shining from various rooftops from buildings in Central, Admiralty and Wan Chai on Hong Kong Island, and in Tsim Sha Tsui and West Kowloon on Kowloon side for about 15 minutes. There's music that goes with it, but you can only hear it if you are near the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre, the Hong Kong Cultural Centre, and the Avenue of Stars.  

The lasers created a Star Wars effect

During the Covid-19 pandemic, after dinner, I would walk from Kennedy Town to get to the Convention Centre on time so that I could listen to the music. That's how exciting my evenings were, since restaurants were closed by 6pm. Bars, movie theatres, karaoke lounges had all shut down. 

While the lights and lasers give a kind of Star Wars effect, it gets old, really fast.

So it was a relief to hear the light show will finally get revamped.

Secretary for Culture, Sports and Tourism Rosanna Law Shuk-pui said the new show will feature 3D projections and various themes.

"Over the past 20 years, A Symphony of Lights has been optimised and updated many times, but relying solely on laser performances from buildings has become somewhat insufficient," she said.

"After gathering feedback over the past year, we have decided not to allocate resources for major modifications to it."

But A Symphony of Lights won't be slinking away right away -- Law promises there will be special farewell events to mark the end of the show that started back in 2004.

She suggested the new light show would be theme-based, such as Halloween and Mid-Autumn Festival to maximise effect, and would not be shown daily to encourage people to come out to watch it.

Good intentions, we will be keen on seeing what the government comes up with...

Dim Sum Restaurant Metropole to Close

So many dim sum options at Metropole in Admiralty

Every few days there's a story in the news that yet another eatery or restaurant chain has shuttered.

This time it's Metropole, a Chinese restaurant known for its dim sum trolleys that was in business for 35 years, but will close in September.

One of the last dim sum restaurant with trolleys

While it's a place not necessarily dear to my heart, it's where my relatives and I usually met up for Chinese New Year, or when relatives from out of town came to visit. 

The Admiralty location was convenient for most of us, right above the MTR station and near the bus stop, it catered to big groups, had a wide selection of dim sum and the prices were reasonable.

We wouldn't wait for the women pushing the dim sum trolleys to come to us -- we'd take our white card and hunt down food and bring it back to our table. 

Or we'd walk up to the middle of the restaurant, where they served dishes like radish cake and taro cake, "three fried stuffed treasures" of eggplant, peppers, and tofu, pig trotters cooked in vinegar with egg and ginger, and a dessert station that included tofu fa.

If har gao, chicken feet, spare ribs, char siu buns and spring rolls weren't enough, you could also order plates of fried noodles, congee and vegetables too.

Cheung represents the catering sector in Legco

In the end the total bill for a large table was relatively reasonable and we were all stuffed. 

An American friend living in Hong Kong wanted to know where to take visitors to have the trolley experience and I recommended Metropole. 

I warned him to make a reservation in advance because if you didn't, you'd be stuck waiting around for the next free table.

But when he went, the large restaurant was hardly full of diners.

And with people heading up north mostly on weekends to chow down on food at a fraction of Hong Kong prices, restaurants like Metropole are struggling to stay afloat, and it doesn't help that landlords aren't giving them a break on rent.

It's surprising that legislator Tommy Cheung Yu-yan, who represents the catering industry, has not raised concerns about the sector in the Legislative Council, or brought this issue to the attention of the Chief Executive and the Executive Council. 

The art of dim sum is fast disappearing in HK

And while the media has been reporting on each restaurant closing, no one has questioned the government on why it hasn't done more to save this industry, and in particular trying to help those who have lost their jobs to get the compensation they deserve.

What is particularly sad about Metropole is the amount of knowledge of producing dim sum disappearing. There are fewer and fewer people who know how to make har gao, char siu buns, steamed rice rolls and egg tarts.

Many restaurants use frozen dim sum made by factories in China because the labour is so expensive, or it's a way to cut costs. However, one can easily tell the difference between factory and handmade dim sum.

However, dim sum is practically synonymous with Hong Kong, considered a foodie city. So why is not more done to preserve this delicious piece of culinary heritage?

Metropole

4/F, United Centre

95 Queensway, Admiralty

852 2865 1988

 

Lam to Downsize Lavish Office Space

Lam needs to downsize her office... to the Immigration Tower

The Hong Kong government needs to tighten its belt with a nearly HK$100 million deficit, and one item that will be reduced is former chief executive Carrie Lam Cheng Yuet-ngor's office that cost HK$9.17 million in the 2023-24 financial year.

Her current office is located at One Pacific Place in Admiralty, a sprawling 2,874 sq ft space, but after the lease ends in mid-May she will be moving to... Immigration Tower in Wan Chai.

Her office is currently at One Pacific Place

Ironically it was her administration that announced plans to demolish the tower in 2017 along with two other government buildings and develop them into convention, hotel and commercial facilities.

Alas, Lam not only has to downsize, but also downgrade.

Her new office will be occupying the one used by the director of immigration.

All previous chief executives get the perk of having their own office, though the first three share office space at an office complex on Kennedy Road.

They apparently use these offices to promote Hong Kong, such as receiving visiting dignitaries and delegations, giving media interviews, attending functions and speaking engagements.

The first chief executive Tung Chee-hwa is 87 years old and supposedly declining in health; Donald Tsang Yam-kuen was convicted of misconduct in public office in 2015, so he keeps a low profile; and Leung Chun-ying is 70 years old and likes to criticise not only incumbents but also adversaries.

Immigration Tower was planned to be demolished

And then Lam who became world famous for her performance during the 2019 protests and the Covid-19 pandemic soon after.

So do these former leaders still need office space? Maybe they can make a deal with WeWork on renting co-working spaces? It would help ease the city's budget somewhat...

MTR is Hong Kong's Pride and Joy

The Tuen Ma line is very efficient

The MTR system continues to grow in Hong Kong, and I experienced first hand how convenient it is to commute from the New Territories to Central in minutes.

This morning I went to Yuen Long to visit a friend who has a 15-month-old boy and another baby three months old. She made it easier for me by suggesting we meet in Yoho Mall, which is attached to the Yuen Long MTR station.

It took me just under an hour to get there from North Point by going to Admiralty, then taking the East Rail to Hung Hom, and changing to the Tuen Ma line, the longest line on the MTR network. 

But going back to Central, it only took 30 minutes, by going from Yuen Long to Nam Cheong then to Hong Kong station. I was very impressed. Not only that I got to my lunch appointment on time despite helping my friend with her kids, and even holding onto the older one by the hand as he walked a bit in the mall.

This MTR line enables people to live in cheaper areas and commute into work in Central or Tsim Sha Tsui East within 30 minutes. Where else in the world can you find such an efficient public transport system?

This is Hong Kong's strength -- being able to transport people quickly and efficiently. This MTR system is not trumpeted enough, the envy of every other major city in the world.

Picture of the Day: Hong Kong Rarebit

Hong Kong Rarebit at the Lobster Bar

This is a Hong Kong Rarebit that is served at the Lobster Bar in the Island Shangri-La in Admiralty

It's a take on the Welsh Rarebit, which is typically hot cheese sauce with stout, ale or beer with Worcestershire sauce and mustard on toasted bread. 

The dish dates back to the 1500s when working-class families could not afford to eat rabbit, so this was the next best thing.

This one is called Hong Kong Rarebit because it has a bit of oyster sauce in it instead of stout to bump up the umami flavour.

And it's sooo good. The gooeyness of the cheese contrasts with the light crunchiness of the toast. Pop it into your mouth and it's a heavenly revelation!

Mini HK Foodie Enclave in Vancouver

Lobster bisque cappuccino was delish

I discovered a Hong Kong alumnae group in the wilds of East Vancouver today.

A friend who is studying hospitality and restaurant business management at La Salle Vancouver asked me to come dine at the Bistro, the student-run restaurant on campus.

Very tender duck breast as the main course

It's a small restaurant, but cosy, and I had a view of the kitchen where my friend prepared food.

She and her fellow students had to come up with a culinary concept, the menu and pricing. They designed a three-course menu for C$25, and an extra C$3 for a non-alcoholic drink.

When I walked in the door, a red head woman warmly greeted me and showed me to a table. We got to chatting and when she said she worked in Hong Kong for a long time, including a restaurant I knew, I realised I remembered her!

What a small world! She left Hong Kong in 2018 and was looking for a place to settle. She decided to be in a city where there were lots of Asian people and so it was Vancouver. 

Lunch was fantastic -- a citrusy refreshing drink, followed by lobster bisque cappuccino, served in a cup with a bit of froth on top and underneath the bisque had a lot of flavour, served hot and had perfectly cooked chunks of lobster in it.

Decadent chocolate pavlova and raspberry sorbet

Soon after the main course arrived, featuring two pieces of duck breast that were very tender, with an assortment of grilled vegetables, like Brussel sprouts, half a shallot, potato and segmented oranges in an orange sauce, and a squash puree. 

Finally for dessert, a first for me -- chocolate pavlova with a scoop of raspberry sorbet and strawberry, blueberry and raspberry. 

Afterwards the red head invited me into the kitchen to see my friend and she introduced me to her culinary instructor who had also worked in Hong Kong!

She had worked at a restaurant in the JW Marriott in Admiralty that I remembered and it was so nice to meet people with these Hong Kong connections!

While La Salle Vancouver is a bit far to drive to, it isn't when you're meeting like-minded people! 

Cronut King Leaves Hong Kong

Ansel at the Harbour City store in Dec 2019

Another eatery is shutting down in Hong Kong after four years in business. Called Dang Wen Li, it is the Chinese name for star pastry chef Dominique Ansel, best known for his creation of the cronut, a cross between a donut and croissant.

However, unlike his bakery in New York City where a new flavour is unveiled each month, Dang Wen Li only had the cronut available once a year in Hong Kong.

The classic pastries and HK-inspired cakes

Ansel came for the opening of the first location in Harbour City in December 2019, a fun small cafe that was very Instagram-friendly and was easy to get to from the Star Ferry in Tsim Sha Tsui. Most memorable was the hot chocolate with the marshmallow flower that "blossomed" as soon as it was placed in the hot drink.

The dessert creations were linked very closely to Hong Kong, with a cake that was shaped like the lemon tea juice box, but is actually Earl Grey bergamot cake, a "pineapple bun" that was actually a coconut pineapple passionfruit cake, and a raspberry mousse Japanese cheesecake that looks like a package of haw flakes.

In explaining the Hong Kong-inspired cakes, Ansel said he wanted to create "pastries that are inspired by the cultures and traditions of Hong Kong". 

However, they seemed quite gimmicky and I wondered how long they would last. In the beginning there were long lines at the store and the one at IFC that quickly opened soon after. And then a lot of money was poured into the flagship store on Queen's Road Central with its high ceiling and lots of seating.

Guava mousse cake for Christmas 2020

To entice people to stay longer, the newest location offered savoury dishes, including sandwiches and even a char siu egg croissant, and borscht soup. But people really came for the desserts.

One Christmas I ordered a guava mousse cake that had gorgeous red swirls much like a massive peppermint candy. Sadly it was only offered for one year. 

The gimmicky products continued to grow, and would include pecan and apple pies for Thanksgiving, and even a rectangular loaf of bread that was made with layers like a croissant and seasoned with sea salt. 

Meanwhile the viennoiserie (traditional pastries) did quite well, from croissants to pain au chocolat.

After I left Hong Kong, there are only two locations now -- the one in Central and another in Pacific Place in Admiralty.

Dang Wen Li is encouraging anyone holding its vouchers to use them before it closes at the end of January. It's too bad the bakery didn't even last for Chinese New Year and Valentine's Day... it's the cruel reality of business that it's got to cut its losses.

One wonders how the local partner, Upper East Holdings is doing. It also brought Sugarfina, Lady M and Tiffany Cafe to Hong Kong.

Overwhelming Turnout to Mourn Queen

Davidson's picture of the sea of flowers

In the days following the Queen's death last Thursday, people in Hong Kong have been flocking to the British Consulate in Admiralty to lay flowers. The last few days have had extremely long lines that stretch through nearby Hong Kong Park to Cotton Tree Drive with people wanting to sign the condolence book.

Despite the hot weather advisory, they have been waiting in line for about three hours each day, as the condolence book is available from 10am to 4pm until this Friday.

The British Consul-General Brian Davidson tweeted that over 2,500 condolence books have been filled and he posted pictures of thousands of bouquets placed on the ground by the consulate.

Pictures and notes were also placed at consulate

It's also interesting to note that convenor of the Executive Council Regina Ip Lau Suk-yee came to the consulate earlier today with two bodyguards(!) presumably to sign the book of condolence. Interesting considering she is a staunch pro-Beijing politician. 

Did she not get the memo that Beijing stated Hong Kong was never a British colony?

A few days earlier she posted this tweet:

"Queen Elizabeth II visited Hong Kong two times during her reign. She impressed me as a dutiful and caring monarch, who had weathered many storms but never shunned her responsibilities. She is a symbol of resilience and loyalty to her people and country, May her soul rest in peace."

In any event, local media are suggesting the long lines of people at the British consulate is an unofficial referendum of how people feel about what is happening to Hong Kong, that the onslaught of changes is too much to bear, and they are nostalgic about the past, pre-1997.

People lined up for hours in hot sun to pay respects

The Queen's death has given some Hongkongers the opportunity to openly show their appreciation to the British, though critics say the country didn't do enough to give local people full democracy. Others think then British prime minister Margaret Thatcher gave up Hong Kong too easily and shouldn't have handed it back at all.

Hongkongers have until September 19 to openly mourn the Queen and all things British; once it's over, the authorities will surely be back to punishing those publicly unfurling British flags or seen pining for the UK...

Lam's New Bling Digs

Lam's office will be at Pacific Place One in Admiralty

There was a lot of excitement and confusion when former TVB anchor Chris Wong posted on social media that former chief executive Carrie Lam Cheng Yuet-ngor was spotted in Heathrow Airport in London, appearing to be transferring to go somewhere else.

Ex-TVB anchor misreported Lam being in the UK

But it turned out to be a lot of baloney when she was photographed at the Hong Kong Convention and Exhibition Centre in Wan Chai the day before the Hong Kong Book Fair opened.

She was there having breakfast alone before attending a seminar held by a pro-Beijing think tank.

There was a flurry of comments wondering why Lam would be in the UK when she has been sanctioned there.

Nevertheless, there is definitely brouhaha over the news that she has an office -- she has retired, why does she need an office? -- in Pacific Place -- and that it will cost a whopping HK$22 million (US$2.8 million) over three years.

She is still in HK, spotted here at HKCEC

And yes, taxpayers must foot the bill.

The 2,874 sq ft space above the shopping mall in Admiralty will cost HK$377,000 per month in rent for a three-year contract.

The space is being renovated at the tune of HK$8.7 million.

Since the time of Tung Chee-hwa as the first chief executive, each successive leader has had an office set up for them by the government so that they can perform such activities as "receiving visiting dignitaries and delegations, giving local and overseas media interviews, and taking part in speaking engagements."

The offices of previous leaders have been situated in a historic building in Mid-Levels, and so Lam's office will be the first one located on commercial property.

It doesn't seem like there was any discussion about how much rent taxpayers should be shelling out for an office for arguably the most hated chief executive (so far). Nor does there seem to be any discussion of a tender...

And as a former chief executive her perks include having a chauffeur, a senior personal assistant and an assistant clerical officer.

Lam's office is the first on commercial property

It seem the cost of her office is way more than the previous three chief executives combined at only HK$11.4 million for 2020-21.

Dominic Lee Tsz-king of the New People's Party seems to be the only one grumbling about Lam's office, describing it as "too expensive and unnecessary."

"I don't understand why a separate office needs to be rented in such a premium location... so much taxpayers' money will be spent," he said.

Indeed, many are wondering the same thing.