A Tale about a Cocktail Bun

Fluffy, and sweet cocktail buns in Chinatown

Today we had lunch in a cha chaan teng in Vancouver's Chinatown and for dessert we ate a cocktail bun, something I haven't eaten in quite a while.

It's a fluffy soft milk bread with a filling of desiccated coconut mixed with butter and sugar inside and topped with sesame seeds.

Cocktail buns (雞尾包) is literally translated as "chicken tail bun". But the origin of these pastries apparently dates back to the 1950s when a baker ground up unsold buns from the previous day, added sugar and coconut to make a new filling and inserted into freshly-made buns. They were given the name "cocktail" as the baker mixed the ingredients like a bartender.

Most Chinese bakeries in Chinatown have these buns. But you can make them at home, as there are several recipes online! While this would be fun (and delicious), the dilemma is that once you make a dozen of them, you'd have to eat them all! 

Taipan Bakery, Inventor of Snowy Mooncakes Suddenly Shutters

Taipan Bread and Cakes invented snowy mooncakes in 1989

Taipan Bread and Cakes, most notable for inventing snowy mooncakes, has shuttered after 41 years in business.  

On its website 12 shops were listed across Hong Kong. 

12 shops shuttered, and 80 people are jobless

"Due to many unpredictable and irresistible shocks recently, our company regretfully announces that it will officially cease operations from [Tuesday]," a notice said on several chain branches.

"Thank you for your support and love for our company over the years. We sincerely apologise for any inconvenience this may cause."

The sudden closure caught customers with memberships off guard, as some had coupons and could not use them.

"How could you have known? They all closed suddenly. Now, my coupons are nothing but out-of-print souvenirs," said a 68-year-old woman surnamed Lee, who had a Taipan membership.

Days before Taipan shuttered, the Hong Kong Federation of Trade Unions said on Facebook that the bakery owed salaries to its 80 staff, while landlords had taken the company to court for unpaid rent.  

The brand created chilled mochi mooncakes

The bakery was started by Kwok Hung-kwan in 1984 and became famous when it introduced snowy mooncakes, which were chilled, not baked, and covered with a mochi-like skin with various sweet fillings, like mango, red bean, and durian. At its peak, Taipan had 27 shops in Hong Kong.

Mainland Chinese media reported the son's owner supported the 2019 protests, which led to Taipan removing the snowy mooncakes from its stores across the border ahead of the Mid-Autumn Festival.

The brand was sold two years later to Vast Luck Group that was described by Wen Wei Po as "a Hong Kong brand that loves Hong Kong and the country." 

Unfortunately Hong Kong didn't love Taipan enough to keep it going...

The Last Pavlova of Summer

The pavlova is the signature summer dessert

This afternoon I happened to have dim sum a stone's throw away from Sweet e's Darling Desserts, which had its last day today. The landlord did not renew their lease.

On Instagram yesterday and this morning they posted that they would only be selling its famous pavlovas from 1pm onwards, first come, first served.

As I came out of the dim sum restaurant about 12.45pm, I saw a queue in front of the bakery, and a friend from Pilates class waving her hand at me. She was at the back of the line so I joined her.

She told me she had tried to order the pavlova last week for today, Father's Day, but they refused to take her request. She was particularly annoyed as she knows the two sisters who own Sweet e's from since they were kids. "If I don't get a pavlova I'm going to get very mad at them," she said, and I told her I was keen to watch this interaction.

Waiting in line to get into the shop

Finally when 1pm rolled around, customers went into the shop one party at a time, and soon the pavlovas in the refrigerated showcase were gone. Each time someone came out with a white box, they would say, "They're making more in the back, you're fine."

My friend told me Sweet e's' pavlova is the best -- I told her I'd actually never eaten it before, as my mother makes a pretty good meringue shell which she fills the base with freshly whipped cream and then mixed fruit, such as strawberries, blueberries, grapes, and mango. But since this was the last day to get one from Sweet e's (until they find another location), I had to try it at least once.

Meanwhile I told her the mousse cakes were the best -- in particular lemon, or raspberry. So light, fluffy and refreshing.

After about 20 minutes my friend and I were at the front of the line and walked into the store. She walked straight into the kitchen and got her request fulfilled of getting an 8-inch pavlova, while I ordered a 4-inch one. Mine was almost complete, if I waited another 15 minutes.

Every subsequent customer who came in mourned the fact the shop was closing, and when they were told they would have to wait 30 minutes, 40 minutes for their pavlova, they were very happy to, and made sure they paid before they left and returned for their dessert before 5pm.

Finally mine was ready to go -- good enough for three of us to have a bite of to try.

And indeed it was light, airy, a touch sweeter than my mother's meringue, but for a store-bought pavlova it was delicious. The fresh cream was a delight, and it was topped with sliced strawberries and mango. 

Glad I had a chance to try the bakery's signature summer dessert. And am already looking forward to Sweet e's opening somewhere else (hopefully nearby!) in the next few months.

Bakehouse Bakes up Success Story

Chef Gregoire Michaud with Bakehouse's famous egg tarts

Bakehouse is an extremely popular bakery that sells loaves of sourdough bread, pastries, cookies, sandwiches and doughnuts. Its most famous product is the sourdough egg tart, similar to the pastel de nata with its caramelised egg custard.

It was started 2018 by Swiss Gregoire Michaud, who quit his job as executive pastry chef at the Four Seasons Hong Kong. He first set up a wholesale business in 2013 supplying bread to hotels and restaurants before opening the retail bakery Bakehouse.

There are queues daily at the various locations

For someone who covers the food business it's been fascinating to watch Bakehouse grow from its first shop in Wan Chai to now having seven locations around Hong Kong.

A few days ago I caught up with Michaud and he continues to have a very humble attitude towards building his business and brand, and knowing full well that consistency is key.

The last time I talked to him was during the Covid-19 pandemic and he was having a hard time despite long lines at Bakehouse; the wholesale side of his business had completely plunged because hotels and restaurants did not order any bread, as hardly any customers dined out.

While retail sales at Bakehouse were doing very well, it was just barely enough to get by those few years. After the pandemic was over and borders reopened, sales bounced back very quickly.

Michaud said that the second most popular location after Wan Chai is Tsim Sha Tsui, with mainland customers passing through the area via the high-speed rail and thanks to Xiaohongshu, these visitors will go to Bakehouse and pickup not one box of egg tarts (six per box), but eight -- yes eight boxes of egg tarts. 

The flaky egg tarts are made with sourdough

But then someone on Xiaohongshu posted that if they wanted to skip the lines in Tsim Sha Tsui they should go to the Causeway Bay location.

There are even people in Taiwan who fly to Hong Kong specifically to stand in line at Bakehouse to buy the egg tarts and then get back on the next flight to deliver them to people who have ordered them online.

Some local residents have given up lining up for the prized egg tarts, saying because Bakehouse is trying to keep up with demand, quality has dropped...

Last year it was reported Bakehouse sold a whopping 18,000 to 20,000 egg tarts per day. At HK$12.50 each, that's a cool HK$91.25 million annually.

Quite amazing considering Michaud and his team were experimenting with some leftover sourdough dough to make egg tarts.

And they really are delicious. 

Picture of the Day: Canele

Caneles are the Mt Everest of pastry baking

Caneles. They are a small slightly sweet treat made from vanilla, rum, egg, flour, butter and sugar. They are mixed together, then the batter is left to rest for a few days in the refrigerator for the flour to fully absorb the ingredients before it is poured into small, round copper molds and baked.

The end result is a deep brown colour on the outside, and a knife should be able to make a pretty clean cut, revealing a bubble interior that is almost like custard, slightly soft, yellow and have a hint of alcohol.

Apparently making caneles is not easy -- one food blogger gave the analogy that if making panettone is the Mt Everest of baking, then making caneles is the Mt Everest of pastry baking.

The word canele means "fluted", and this pastry dates back to sometime between the 15th and 18th centuries in Bordeaux, France. Back then winemakers used egg whites to clarify their wine, and the leftover egg yolks giving to nuns to feed impoverished children, while other yolks were used to make caneles.

About a month ago, a new bakery opened in Vancouver called Tona and the caneles there are impressive.

The exterior is slightly crunchy thanks to the caramelised, slightly sweet exterior, while the inside is a fantastic contrast that is not pillowy soft, but rather a moist softness with hints of vanilla and rum, making the taste and texture so complex and beguiling.

While they're a bit expensive at C$4.50 each at Tona, a lot of skill and technique is involved in making these, and the caneles here are irresistible!

Bakehouse Has a Recipe for Success

Michaud launched Bakehouse 6 years ago

One of the few eateries in Hong Kong that is going gangbusters is Bakehouse, started by Swiss pastry chef Gregoire Michaud.

There are usually lines outside the original Wan Chai location, where young people are keen to have brunch or a sandwich along with some pastries washed down with coffee. Otherwise there's also a line for takeout, like loaves of freshly-baked sourdough bread, danishes, jam-filled donuts and the signature sourdough egg custard tart.

One fun fact is that Bakehouse sells between 18,000 to 20,000 egg tarts per day, which adds up to a whopping HK$91.25 million in annual revenue from those flaky egg tarts alone.

Even during the Covid-19 pandemic Bakehouse was busy with a 20 percent increase in business, but the bakery lost 60 percent of its wholesale business supplying bread and pastries to restaurants and hotels. Michaud had a tough time motivating staff during this period, but he just knew he had to keep going.

These days Bakehouse is extremely busy thanks to being featured in Xiaohongshu, a Chinese social media platform that has touted its egg tarts. Chinese visitors can be seen posing outside the bakeries with the aforementioned egg tarts or the coveted Bakehouse blue paper bag.

Because of the flood of customers, Michaud has said recently Bakehouse will double the number of outlets by the end of 2025, as well as expanding its main kitchen in Chai Wan.

Not bad for the former executive pastry chef at the Four Seasons Hong Kong, who traded his starched white chef jacket for a blue apron and has been non-stop ever since he launched Bakehouse six years ago. He also won over locals with his decent Cantonese, making fun videos with Chinese media.

He is also looking to expand Bakehouse across the border into China in the next 18 months.

"We will start by operating with a local partner, but we will be fully involved because we do not want to lose our quality and our integrity," Michaud said. "It's Bakehouse, but we also represent Hong Kong as a brand."

It's amazing to watch Michaud succeed with his vision and endless creativity in the kitchen. He's willing to try new things and knows local tastes. 

But yes those egg tarts. In Hong Kong, you have to try them, along with a bowl of wonton noodles, congee, milk tea, pineapple bun, roast goose, dim sum...

 

Neighbourhood Bakery Opens

Cinnamon roll, plum pastry, croissant and pain au chocolat

Finally! A new bakery opened a few blocks from our home last week and it's already become very popular.

Called Bread Culture, the bakery used to be in Calgary, but the owners were burnt out and relocated to Vancouver. It's ironic considering Alberta is trying to entice British Columbians to move and take advantage of more job opportunities and affordable housing.

I tried to visit Bread Culture before it closed on Friday at 4pm and was shocked to find the shelves were completely empty. The staff said they were sold out long before so i said I would be back again -- earlier.

The next day I went back to the bakery at around 11am and was pleased to see an array of baked goods available, from breads to pastries and even choux or cream puffs.

I told the staff that I had come the day before and everything was sold out.

"Oh yeah we were swarmed by locusts," he said. "Two women came when we opened and took two big boxes of stuff."

Hopefully the bakery will enforce a rule that large orders need to be made 24 hours in advance so that the rest of us can at least try some items.

I was so excited by the selection of baked goods that I brought home a croissant, plum danish, a pain au chocolat and a cinnamon roll, as well as a loaf of sourdough bread.

Everything looked and tasted delicious, not too sweet. For the cinnamon roll we were advised to either heat it up slightly in the toaster oven or microwave to bring out the gooey-ness. I for one was delighted to eat a sourdough loaf again, after having eaten many loaves from Bakehouse in Hong Kong.

Maybe Bread Culture can make sourdough egg tarts too? Can't wait to try the choux pastry next time!

Scrumptious Baked Goods at YVR

Delectable baked goods from Pure Bread at YVR

The other day I discovered a pretty good bakery -- at Vancouver International Airport no less.

It's called Pure Bread, a play on pure bred? 

Just looking at its showcase of various pastries, breads, cookies and cakes was enough to tempt me to try some.

So I bought a few items and brought them home to try and was not disappointed. 

What caught my eye was the raspberry rhubarb biscuit, with raspberry jam in the middle that is quite thick and not runny. The biscuit itself isn't sweet, but it's not particularly fluffy, otherwise it wouldn't hold the jam well.

I also got the rhubarb ginger scone, again not sweet and had a very subtle ginger flavour. It could have been a bit more pronounced, but we'll take it.

Finally the chocolate chip cookie had sour cherries in it which made it very interesting to try, the cherries curbing the sweetness of the chocolate chips. It was hard to stop eating this cookie!

And the shop even has bone-shaped biscuits for canines!

I was happy to discover Pure Bread has several locations in Vancouver: Kitsilano, Mount Pleasant, Gastown, and one coming on West 4th Avenue. There's even two locations in Whistler.

Looking forward to trying other items again soon!

Review: Tambuah Mas Indonesian Cuisine

This restaurant has been around since 1981

In Singapore a family friend took me to eat Indonesian food, something I haven't eaten in a very long time. She took me to a restaurant called Tambuah Mas in the basement of Paragon shopping mall on Orchard Road.

Whole deep-fried fish with its skeleton

It has been operating since 1981 in various locations, serving Indonesian cuisine particularly from Padang, Sulawesi and Java. 

We arrived a bit early as it opens at 11am but they let us sit at a table and peruse through the menu first, though we had to order by scanning a QR code.

The food arrived soon after which was quite impressive, though the results were mixed. One of the restaurant's signature dishes is ikan nila, a whole fish where the meat is filleted with the bone attached and deep-fried for a kind of Halloween skeletal presentation. 

Crispy baby squid with spicy sauce

A fresh water fish was used and this one had a distinctive smell and taste that wasn't off, but wasn't very appealing. Perhaps the fish was frozen? The fish meat was quite tough too, unfortunately, and we were not able to finish it.

Cumi-cumi goreng is a dish of delightfully tiny, crispy baby squid topped with a spicy-sweet sauce. These were crunchy and slightly spicy hot and very addictive, though for two of us the portion was quite large.

I really enjoyed sop buntut makassar, a bowl of spicy ox-tail soup, where the meat has been simmering for a long time and once we used our spoon to touch the ox tail, the meat fell off very easily. The soup was so flavourful that eating it evoked the soothing feeling of comfort food. This hearty soup with some rice -- which we had -- made it an ideal combination.

Comforting and flavourful ox-tail soup

Finally to balance the dishes, we had some vegetables in the form of stir-fried okra or lady's fingers with onion, practically the only non spicy plate on the table! 

To cool off from our spicy meal we ordered cendol, or shaved ice with coconut milk, green bean jelly, jackfruit and young coconut milk. So refreshing and delicious!

We walked off a fraction of our calories by wandering around the shopping centre's bakery stalls where they sold tempting items like nutella rye brownies, cranberry cream cheese fold (with numerous thin pastry layers), circular croissants with various toppings, and traditional desserts like lapis sagu, kueh telur, and pandan chiffon cake.

Cendol with jackfruit and green bean jelly

If only our metabolism was kickstarted into high gear...!

Tambuah Mas

Paragon 

#B1-44

+65 6733 2220

Picture of the Day: Xiaohongshu Photo Shoots

Everyone taking pictures of the street sign in Kennedy Town

Walking around Hong Kong I saw a lot of young Chinese tourists, mostly women in their 20s, dressed up and carrying cameras or their phones mounted on selfie sticks, posing in front of specific streets and landmarks.

They were taking pictures where others on Xiaohongshu or "Little Red Book", a social media and e-commerce platform somewhat similar to Instagram, had posted. 

This was their idea of a Hong Kong holiday, or any trip for that matter -- posing in front of places like Bakehouse, a popular bakery with the coveted blue paper bag, or in front of Arabica coffee shop with the coffee cup that has a percentage sign at its Kennedy Town location.

There are other better places to take photos...

While some of these shops may have a bump in business thanks to these visitors snapping up coffees and pastries, I've heard some of these tourists find empty bags or drained coffee cups to use as props.

Can we say these places have been Xiaohongshu-ed?

Why replicate the same angle as everyone else? Or why not create your own memories of the place with other kinds of pictures?

But no, they seemed obsessed with recreating the same picture (different outfits), and patiently waited for others to finish shooting before they set up their own shot. 

Meanwhile they crowd the sidewalks making it hard for local residents trying to get from A to B.

How long will this trend last? Asking for a friend...