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| The signature roast duck was a showstopper on the table |
Chef Samuel Lee has lived in Paris for over 10 years. He was the head chef of Shang Palace, the fine dining Chinese restaurant at the Shangri-La Paris, which earned a Michelin star during his tenure.
After a decade, Lee wanted to continue living in the French capital but open his own restaurant, creating dishes that paired with wines.
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| Crispy shrimp croquettes with spicy mayo |
The result is
SENsation, with Sen a play off of the Mandarin pronunciation of his Chinese name, meaning forest.
I had interviewed him about his restaurant when he opened it last February and found it very intriguing when he described the various dishes on the menu.
So when I knew I was coming to Paris, I immediately booked a table to try his food.
Sensation is tucked in a residential area in Le Marais, so it's very casual and Lee himself greets us wearing a T-shirt under an apron, while his other chefs in the small kitchen are wearing chef jackets.
We were the first party to arrive just after 7pm, but soon after we sat down, other tables were occupied; by 8pm the restaurant was full.
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| Mapo tofu, char siu, meagre, and fried rice |
The restaurant interior has character, some walls are not finished, the wall by the kitchen has a wooden bookshelf with books and Chinese knick knacks, by the entrance is a Tang dynasty print and above it is the slogan in Chinese roughly translated as "keep the wine flowing."
We started off with some appetisers, shrimp croquettes, crispy and light, with Lee's pairing of spring rolls with finely shaved Comte cheese. He explained it was kind of a riff off of a croque Monsieur, with the cheese melting on top.
The cheese didn't exactly melt, but we thought it was an interesting idea. Same goes for the roast pork marinated not in a sauce made with Chinese rose wine, but Cognac! The char siu was a bit on the tough side (not fatty enough), but had the lingering Cognac flavour and woody finish.
We also had a small bowl with one wonton in a consomme that was like a warm hug.
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| Sweet "guo ba" and mango cream |
Next came the signature roast duck dish called "I am not a Beijing duck!" It was a beautifully roasted half portion French bird with the crispiest skin and tender meat underneath. It came with thin steamed pancakes and julienne of cucumber and scallions. Absolutely delicious, with no fat stuck to the skin.
Mapo tofu heated things up with Sichuan peppercorns, chillis, minced beef and mushrooms, while fried rice featured plump shrimps and bits of char siu. We also enjoyed the steamed meagre, perfectly cooked, and had a topping of not only cilantro, but also fennel.
Craving cooked vegetables, we had a plate of stir-fried mixed greens like choi sum, cabbage and bean sprouts with goji berries.
We somehow managed to finish everything and found room in our stomachs to try two desserts, chilled mango cream with pomelo and tapioca, and the sweet version of "guo ba", with a caramelised rice pudding with crispy rice and ice cream.
When we praised Lee for the quality of the food, he humbly said it was all about getting the freshest ingredients. He said the restaurant was about offering simple dishes, and with so many Chinese restaurants in Paris, he wanted to stand out through getting the best ingredients.
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| Chef Lee in casual |
And with that, our gourmet experience at Sensation was over and our tummies sated, we waddled back to the hotel, savouring the incredible meal we just had.
32 rue Saint-Maur
75011, Paris, France
+33 1 40 31 32 24