Friday, April 11, 2025

Fact of the Day: Fewer Canadians Going to the US

There's less traffic at the Canada-US border these days

Ever since Donald Trump became President of the United States and taunted Canada about becoming the 51st state, there's a lot of anecdotes of people saying they are not traveling to the United States anytime soon.

And now there are numbers to back it up.

According to Statistics Canada, the number of return trips among Canadians traveling to the US in March plummeted compared to the previous year. When it comes to air travel, it was down by 13.5 percent, and for land travel a whopping 32 percent.

Canadians are also concerned about the possibility of being detained, after reports of people being detained, including Canadian actress Jasmine Mooney, who was detained for 11 days last month when her work visa application was denied at the US-Mexico border.

"I got put into real jail. So it's just like the movies, two levels, cells on each side," she said in an interview with CBC News. "I didn't leave my cell for, I think, 24 hours, to be honest I was so distraught."

US Customs and Border Protection says the Trump administration is cracking down on people who try to enter the US under fraudulent pretenses or with malicious intent.

"Lawful travellers have nothing to fear from these measures, which are designed to protect our nation's security," wrote Hilton Beckham, CBP's assistant commissioner.

Last week the Canadian government quietly updated its online travel advice to the US. Ottawa now reminds travellers to "expect scrutiny" at the US border, including smartphone searches.

Around the same time someone I met over dinner told me they had gone through her emails and social media and deleted any negative mention of Trump just to be safe...


Thursday, April 10, 2025

China Caught in Massive Tariff Showdown


Trump said people were getting "yippy" in tariffs reversal

This morning over dim sum all the chatter was over US President Donald Trump imposing 104 percent tariffs on China.

About an hour later we saw stocks that were blood red were suddenly in the green -- Trump had reversed course and dropped worldwide tariffs down to 10 percent and 90 day pause -- except for China, which he imposed a jaw-dropping 125 percent.

Canada and Mexico still face 25 percent tariffs on cars, steel and aluminium.

Leavitt adamant tariff U-turn was art of the deal
The S&P 500 shot up more than 9 percent, but still not back "to normal". 

Trump gave in after massive selling on the bond markets, which are supposed to be a place of refuge for shell-shocked investors. Instead they were worried a recession was coming, if not here already.

"Over the last few days it looked pretty glum," Trump said. "I thought that people were jumping a little bit out of line. They were getting yippy. They were getting a little bit afraid."

His spokesperson Karoline Leavitt insisted to the media the move was part of the plan all along.

"Many of you in the media clearly missed The Art of the Deal," she said referring to Trump's book on negotiating. "You clearly failed to see what President Trump is doing here. You tried to say that the rest of the world would be moved closer to China, when in fact we've seen the opposite effect."

As for the 125 percent tariffs, Trump is expecting Xi to call him to negotiate... 

Talk about pushing to the limit. But China may not back down, and it's strong enough not to. Perhaps this is Beijing's way to call Trump's bluff?

One of the Chinese captured in Ukraine
Another story that grabbed headlines was Chinese citizens fighting in Ukraine for Russia. Ukrainian President Volodymr Zelensky stated two were captured and showed a video of them being interrogated. They had Chinese identification and bank cards.

The Ukrainian leader later claimed there were over 150 such Chinese citizens who were recruited by Russia to fight; unlike the North Korean soldiers, they were not officially sent there by Beijing.

Nevertheless, Chinese foreign ministry spokesman Lin Jian said Bejing was "verifying the relevant situation", but dismissed the suggestion that more Chinese citizens were participating in the war. 

Officially Beijing has claimed to be neutral and pushing for peace, but has diplomatically and financially backed Moscow by buying large quantities of oil. 

Zelensky claimed Russia recruited the Chinese citizens via social media, and it was a sign that Russian President Vladimir Putin was not interested in peace.

"Ukraine believes that such blatant involvement of Chinese citizens in hostilities on the territory of Ukraine during the war of aggression is a deliberate step toward the expansion of the war, and is yet another indication that Moscow simply needs to drag out the fighting," Zelensky said.



Wednesday, April 9, 2025

Trump Tries to Force Xi to Make a Deal


Trump has imposed a 104 percent tariff on Chinese goods

As of 9pm EST, the United States started imposing a whopping 104 percent tariffs on Chinese imports. The extra 50 percent was added this evening because US President Donald Trump claimed China refused to back down from its counter tariffs.

Beijing refused to bow to what it called "blackmail" and vowed to "fight to the end."

Trump said at a black-tie dinner tonight that China "wants to make a deal, badly, but they don't know how to get it started."

Will Xi bargain with Trump to lower tariffs?
He seems to be trying to force President Xi Jinping to come to the negotiation table, but will Xi concede the need to make a deal?

So far Xi has been pretty aloof, but with tariffs at 104 percent surely he has to act now.

However, the US is more dependent on China than Trump cares to admit. 

At the same time there is no way the US will fulfill Trump's vision of manufacturing moving back to America again. 

Can you imagine Americans actually standing for hours on end assembling iPhones or sewing denim jeans being paid by the piece?

It's not going to happen. Manufacturing went off shore back in the 1990s and labour costs are too prohibitive for them to return to the US, let alone finding people willing to do that work.

People online are speculating whether Walmart will raise prices 104 percent to match the tariffs. If that happened that could spell the end of Walmart!

Now people are starting to realise how dependent they are on imported goods, and what this means for their wallet.

For everyone outside of the US, how about we cut America out and make a deal on trade? 

Tuesday, April 8, 2025

Vancouver Mayor Reflects on By-Election Results


Will Sim take the office of the Mayor more seriously now?

Today Vancouver Mayor Ken Sim gave the impression of swallowing some humble pie, saying he and his party would reflect on the results of Sunday's by-election when two progressive candidates were elected by 15 percent of the city's population.

"Regardless if it's a by-election of not... the reality is we listen to the residents of Vancouver every single day," he said. "There are enough of them that said they're not necessarily happy with everything that's going on. We're going to take a really hard look at ourselves."

Sean Orr of COPE received 34,448 votes, while OneCity's Lucy Maloney got 33,732. A total of 67,962 votes were cast.

Orr (left) and Maloney were elected yesterday
When Orr and Maloney are sworn in on April 9, there will be six ABC councillors, former ABC-turned-independent Rebecca Bligh, and Green Party's Pete Fry.

Maloney, an environmental lawyer and transportation activist, said voters sent a strong message to the incumbent party.

"I think that ABC have lost touch with what ordinary Vancouverites are concerned about," she said, adding housing and affordability are the top priority of residents.

COPE's Orr is a housing activist, landscaper and dishwasher. He believes US politics may have influenced Vancouver voters.

"People are very upset," he said. "People are scared, and people are starting to kind of connect the dots with what's going on down south. You're seeing what Elon Musk and Donald Trump are doing there. They're kind of seeing how the rich buy their way into office."

Meanwhile city manager Paul Mochrie apologised to voters for having to wait over an hour to exercise their right to vote.

Mochrie apologised for way by-election was run
"I want to acknowledge that voting wait times that many electors experienced yesterday were unacceptable," he said in a statement.

"The extended wait times at many voting places reflected flawed planning assumptions for this by-election that informed staff decisions and the plan presented to Council. Recognising the effort by the City's elections team to promote and execute this plan, it was clearly insufficient to accommodate the electorate in accessing an efficient voting process.

"These shortcomings are deeply regrettable and I apologise to all voters impacted by delays, as well as to candidates and civic parties. I, along with City staff, are committed to ensure that lessons from yesterday's by-election inform the planning and execution of the 2026 general municipal election and all future City of Vancouver election efforts."

This afternoon Mochrie went on CBC Radio Vancouver's afternoon show to apologise again and explain that the plan was formally adopted in January and there was not enough time to alter it when they saw how many people showed up for advance voting and for mail-in ballots. 

People are more civically engaged than ever, and realise how important it is to make their voices heard through the ballot box. And this by-election in particular was their way of showing the mayor how they felt about his two years in office. 

More residents would have turned out if they had known about the election -- some thought that because they hadn't received a voting card they were not eligible! And there was not enough information about priority lines, and how the disabled could vote. Quite a messy affair. At least Mochrie owned up to it.

Watch out for 2026. It's going to be a a good turnout for sure.

Monday, April 7, 2025

Taiwanese Duck and Ginger Hot Pot

A warming duck and ginger hotpot for a stopover in Taipei

On my way to Vancouver I stopped over in Taipei for a few hours and met a friend there for dinner.

Unfortunately my flight was delayed by almost an hour, but I managed to make up for the time by rushing out of the plane at Taoyuan International Airport. I grabbed a cart to put my two hand carry luggage, which helped me breeze down the long corridor.

Vermicelli on the left, emperor vegetables, right
Then picking up my bags again we walked through a temperature check and to ensure we did not contaminate Taiwan, we walked on an elevated platform that was covered in artificial turf that had some sanitiser for the soles of our shoes.

After this walkway we arrived at passport control -- which hardly had any queues! I was amazed I was out of there in minutes. So was my friend who picked me up at the Arrivals area.

He insisted on taking me to eat a Taiwanese dish -- duck and ginger hotpot. It was pouring rain but a good excuse to warm up with this food, particularly with ginger!

We went to a Bawei location near the airport and it was pretty much an open-air restaurant, though it was completely covered, just the area facing the street was completely open, with yellow lanterns hanging outside advertising the name of the place.

There were many low tables with a hole in the middle and stools surrounding it, so it was almost like crouching, but not uncomfortable.

Tick off your orders here
We were given a sheet with ingredients on it to tick off, while a man first brought some charcoal that was heated up and placed them in the hole in the table, followed by a big clay pot filled with the duck soup, mostly duck bones, and big chunks of ginger. Some mushrooms were already added.

While we waited for raw ingredients to arrive, we had a plate of vermicelli, thin rice noodles tossed with sesame oil, a signature dish of this place. 

Unfortunately this particular place didn't have any duck blood! But we had other items like emperor vegetables, tofu, duck intestines, and fish dumpling wrappers. 

The meat from chopped up duck was quite tough and hard to extract from the bone, but the soup was delicious and surprisingly the ginger cooking in the pot for so long did not make the broth particularly spicy. It did hit the spot for me, being a rainy night and after traveling for three weeks the gingery soup helped me re-energise for my upcoming long-haul flight home.




Sunday, April 6, 2025

Vancouver By-Election Voting Chaos


Where I started lining up at 12.20pm today to vote

Today Vancouver held a by-election for two seats on City Council. One was vacated by Christine Boyle, who successfully jumped into provincial politics, and the other by Adriane Carr, who retired after many years in political office.

There were already signs that voter turnout would be big just from advance voting and the number of mail-in ballots requested.

I went during lunchtime (wolfed down a sandwich beforehand) and was shocked -- shocked -- to see a massive line outside the Dunbar Community centre. A woman who was helping to run the election explained that yes this was the line to vote and that the wait would be 50 minutes -- 5-0 she reiterated. 

However, if you were elderly and could not stand long, or you had a ferry to catch, then by all means come to the priority line. Some followed her in, the rest of us waited, luckily in the sunshine.

An hour later, I exercised my right
The line kept moving, but snaked around the atrium before moving towards a very long corridor. Eventually I got to the front of the line, got registered, was given a ballot, and after choosing the two candidates, had to line up again to submit my ballot.

It took just over an hour to complete from start to finish.

Apparently at other polling stations the wait was over an hour, up to three hours.

Part of the reason can be faulted on city staff for anticipating (wrongly) that hardly anyone votes in by-elections. But surely from reading the news and the advance voting turnout they should know that only opening 25 polling stations compared the 50 in the 2017 by-election is going to result in long lines.

The other issue was that many elderly people did not know they could bypass the long line and walk right in. I advised my parents to do this and they were done in less than 15 minutes, while other seniors bravely stood in line not knowing about this priority line. Again this is city staff's fault for not making people aware of this option. 

Why did so many people turn out for this by-election?

It was a chance for them to take part in a referendum on Mayor Ken Sim and his administration's performance so far.

And the results show it is a complete repudiation of Sim and his ABC party.

Of the 13 candidates running, two won by a wide margin: Sean Orr of COPE (over 34,000 votes), and OneCity's Lucy Maloney (over 33,000).

Although this does not change ABC's majority on council, Orr and Maloney will put more pressure on Sim and ABC to be more accountable for their actions.

"While the results tonight didn't go the way that we hoped for... we look forward to working with the two elected officials," Sim told ABC supporters this evening.

City council meetings are going to be more interesting from now on...

Saturday, April 5, 2025

Weak Yen Attracts Foreign Money

No cars on the road in the shopping area of Ginza on Sundays

The depressed yen has been a boon for tourism to Japan. People around the world have been flocking to the Land of the Rising Sun for great deals on everything from sushi to clothing. Tourists are lapping up the deals, but leaving those in the hospitality industry burned out.

For example, an izakaya dinner for three including six alcoholic drinks, sushi and king crab, the total bill came to around 28,000 yen (US$190), which is very reasonable by most standards, and for those from Hong Kong, cheap.

When it comes to shopping, bring your passport and the value added tax is deducted at the till -- no need to line up at the airport to process refunds. A friend went to the Ralph Lauren outlet store and bought two pairs of trousers, a pair of jeans and a hoodie for his five-year-old nephew which came to around 69,000 yen (US$470). 

I went on a shopping spree at Uniqlo and the total came to 17,240 -- but with my passport it was deducted further to 15,673 (US$106.80). That was for a pair of jeans, a cotton knit top, an adult T-shirt, three kids' T-shirts and two pairs of kids' shorts. 

Eager to get a pair of sneakers, I headed to well-known brand Onitsuka Tiger, the precursor to Asics. The two-storey shop was swarmed by tourists, grabbing whatever sample shoes they could get their hands on and asking staff to give them the footwear in their sizes.

I couldn't help but feel sorry for the staff, who probably by now are used to aggressive foreigners demanding these sneakers that they perceive as cool. For me though, they aren't comfortable footwear, as the heel area doesn't have much support.

Instead I wandered down the street to an unassuming shoe shop in the basement and there I could browse other sneaker brands without anyone fighting over them. I also had attentive service, trying several shoes before deciding on a pair. 

The Japanese-made sneakers were priced at 19,250 yen (US$130), and with duty free it came to 17,500 yen (US$119.27). 

While tourism does bring in foreign currency into Japan, investment does too.

A Chinese friend I met up with in Hong Kong told me her brother had moved to a small town outside Tokyo -- as an investor. He has put money into a school for disabled children in this town and in return he and his family are allowed to have residency there. 

Apparently they are learning Japanese, his young children go to school there, and they really like the laid-back lifestyle. 

Since 2023, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs has been strongly promoting foreign investment in Japan, with a goal of achieving a balance of 100 trillion yen by 2030. 

There also seems to be more foreigners living and working there, some doing manual labour like repaving roads, to making takoyaki (ball-shaped Japanese snacks usually filled with chopped octopus) in a street-side stall. 

As the population is shrinking because of the low birth rate, more help is needed, which is why the country has had to become more inviting to foreign workers; it has forced the previously insular, homogenous culture to be more accepting of others.

"Necessity is the author of change", says adventurer Tim Hansel. 

Indeed.

Friday, April 4, 2025

The Sad Goodbye of Hudson's Bay


Need a fancy dress? The Bay has them on sale!

So it has come to this. The Hudson's Bay Company, which was established in May 1670 trading beaver pelts and later became an iconic brand known for being Canada's department store, has declared bankruptcy.

Customers have until April 6 to use up their gift cards and so I ventured downtown to see what was left in the multi-level store on Georgia and Granville streets.

The floors look more empty as stock is snapped up
While a cheery staff member greeted me as I came in, it was definitely noticeable that the place is closing. Shoppers were circling around to see what deals they could get on the ground floor, but there weren't many sharp discounts on items unless they were very old stock. Otherwise most things were 20 per cent off, or still full price. 

I went to the escalator to go up, but it was blocked off. Shut down, presumably to save on electricity. So I made my way to the back of the store where the elevators were (also closed), but that was where the staircase was and made my way up to the second floor.

If you need a floor-length ballgown in size 16 come here and grab one before the store closes. Otherwise there was a lot of clothes that people didn't want, mostly because the design seemed dated, stale, hardly interesting. 

The shoe department was pretty much picked over, and it was surprising to see brands like Ugg and Hunter not completely wiped out. There were tons of kids boots still available too. 

On the third floor were more casual clothes and there were racks and racks of jeans in all kinds of sizes and you had to wade through all of them to find your size. I found two pairs to try on as well as a top and took a while to find a fitting room.

The only way up and down is stairs
The staff manning it were bored, counting down the days until they were let go; they may not be fully compensated for all their hours either, which is terrible.

Magically one pair of jeans fit, and it was 20 percent off $159 before tax. With my two gift cards totalling $39, that made my pair of jeans under $100... was it worth it? Not really, but I figured I will probably wear these jeans for several years to replace ones I've had for over 15 years.

As I made my way down the stairs to the ground floor, others were walking up, looking somewhat optimistic they would find a bargain... hope they weren't too disappointed...

Thursday, April 3, 2025

Tokyo: Eating Well in the City


Eating lots of seafood at Andy's Shin Hinomoto in Tokyo

We ate pretty well in Tokyo, but probably not as good as most Japanphiles who specifically head to the Land of the Rising Sun for the marvellous food at cut-rate prices.

Last Thursday we arrived in the evening and by the time we checked into the hotel, it was almost 8pm. Before I went on my trip, my Japanese hairdresser suggested that I try the food at McDonald's because the items would be different than in Vancouver.

McDonald's food in Japan is... different
Even though I hadn't eaten McDonald's in years, that's what we did -- with mixed results.

We tried an ebi filet-o or Filet-O-Shrimp, chicken teriyaki Filet-O, a grape soda, medium fries and two desserts, one that looked like mini churros with a strawberry filling, and strawberry daifuku pie in sakura pink packaging.

The Filet-O-Ebi substituted fish for shrimp with lettuce and mustard and it was not bad, tasting slightly sweet, while the chicken teriyaki burger was smothered in the dark sweet sauce to make the chicken patty palatable. 

Meanwhile the Qoo white grape soda was far from natural juice, but still refreshing, though the fries seemed undercooked, but we ate them anyway. 

Like other McDonald's meals, you wolf down the food, but then don't feel full. For dessert, the chocolate churros, called hitokuchi kuro churros were baked rather than deep-fried, and the strawberry filling was not jam, but artificially flavoured pink. The pie, available for a limited time, had a filling that was part mochi, part strawberry jam which was strange. Nevertheless it was the latter that made the pie taste extremely sweet. I finished off the fries to balance out the saccharine taste.

Meaty king crab served cold
Needless to say, we did a lot of walking afterwards to try to keep the calorie count down.

The next evening we went to an izakaya called Andy's Shin Hinomoto in Yurakucho. It is located under a train overpass, so you can periodically hear trains going by. There are several eateries in each of these moon-shaped deep alcoves that are quite cozy. 

Andy is Andy Lunt, an Englishman from Leicester, who in 1978 married the izakaya's owner's daughter and in 1986 came to Tokyo to help out with the business, and then taking over in 2010.

People can put their bags and umbrellas in little nooks or up above in fishing nets suspended from the ceiling. What a great idea to save space!

Our host had already ordered the king crab and it was boiled, but served cold, and the parts chopped up, but not cracked liked they would be in Chinese restaurants. Instead they were cut open with incisions here and there to help make it easier to extract the sweet meat aided by a skinny long metal tool.

Large plump clams cooked in sake
We were also served a plate of sashimi, long, meaty gyoza, tempura, and wagyu croquettes. The tempura were subpar, same with the croquettes, which were actually three patties of minced beef mixed with mashed potato. However, the highlight was the large clams cooked in sake, and the meat was so plump and juicy.

With beers, highballs and a plum drink, the total came to 26,000 yen for three. Again we walked off the meal by walking to the Imperial Palace, which had strategically placed strong headlights to prevent people from coming too close. 

We walked to a place near the subway station that sells taiyaki, a fish-shaped pastry that has different fillings. We had the custard and red bean one. They were very hot out of the waffle iron, and a good way to keep warm as the temperatures began to drop. 

Tender cuts of beef for yakiniku
Another excellent meal was at Yakinikutoraji Honten, which has several branches, and we ate at the one in Shibuya that had three floors. Our host did the ordering and we didn't mind not knowing what we were eating over a hot charcoal-fired grill.

We started off with thin slices of beef tongue that were delicious and then moved onto other cuts of beef that I was unfamiliar with, but everything was tender, despite not being marbled. Some cooked meats we wrapped in lettuce or shiso leaves, and grilled the odd slices of peppers.

Service was great, as after each round the staff came by to replace the metal wire rack over the charcoal. For dessert I had two scoops of soybean ice cream with a caramel sauce drizzled on top. This meal cost 2,000 yen less than the izakaya!

Our final dinner was at Savoy after our visit to Tokyo Skytree. The pizza place opens at 5.30pm and we didn't know we could make reservations so when we arrived there was luckily a short lineup ahead of us. The first group ahead of us was eight people including four young children; the parents couldn't decide if they wanted to order take away or eat in... Luckily we didn't wait too long, perhaps half an hour or so and we were the next batch of people to go in.

The best seats in the house were near the entrance where the pizza oven was located, with a roaring fire, but we were led to the back kitchen where salads were prepared and dishes were washed. It was kind of strange to have a open view of the back of house, but perhaps they felt they could take advantage of hungry diners eager for any kind of view.

A watery Margherita pizza at Savoy
The pizza menu had changed since my friend last came, with fewer pizzas to choose from. Nevertheless we ordered the classic Margherita and the Blue fin tuna from Yamayuki which looked intriguing. But first we ate an appetiser of octopus with peppers and fennel lightly dressed with oil, vinegar and parsley. Delicious.

We also had some meatballs covered in tomato sauce and some sprinkled melted parmesan cheese that were very tender and total comfort food.

Not long after we finished the meatballs the Margherita pizza arrived. It looked great, with the slightly burnt crust. But when I pulled a slice away to eat, I could see the tomato sauce was quite watery, which dulled the taste of the pizza. I still liked the crust which was airy and held up to the watery filling.

Excellent blue fin tuna pizza
Our waitress thought we were finished after this pizza and began collecting our plates when we told her we were still waiting for the second pizza. Guess they are in a hurry to get the next batch of hungry customers in.

Finally (and giving us a bit of time to digest), the Blue fin tuna pizza came with a side of wasabi and we were not disappointed! This was definitely a memorable pie. Since there's only a few slices of tuna, they were all bunched up in the middle and seared from being in the pizza oven; some bits were still a bit raw. 

The combination of the slight sashimi taste of the tuna combined with cheese was so smooth and sweet, and the roughly chopped spring onions added a bit of crunchy texture. We did not need the wasabi to liven things up. It was already so good.

For dessert we didn't only have one but two tiramisus, very light, almost fluffy light and a hint of the espresso-soaked ladyfingers underneath. We walked out feeling sated and happy to make it to this place. Our total eating time: 45 minutes. 

Wednesday, April 2, 2025

Tokyo: Looking at the Japanese Capital from Up High


Looking up at Tokyo Tower at night

A good way to have a grasp of a city you're visiting is to see it from up high, and Tokyo, a metropolis built vertically, has not one, but two towers from which you can perch from and look down. 

When I went to Tokyo for the first time in the mid-1980s on a school trip, going to Tokyo Tower was a big deal. I still remember the guide book I bought and some souvenirs like key chains. 

Fantastic night scenes of the city
Shaped like the Eiffel Tower in Paris, but 9 metres taller, Tokyo Tower was built in 1958 and stands 332.9 metres and has an observation deck at 150 metres, and a higher one at 250 metres. We went after dinner and were surprised to find there was no line up. We just bought tickets and went up the elevator to see Tokyo at night. 

Admittedly it was difficult to make out everything in the dark, but it was enjoyable with less visitors. As it is sakura season, the observation deck area was decorated with a fake sakura tree and pink petals decorating some of the windows (making it harder to take pictures). Nevertheless it was a clear night and so our night pictures were pretty good.

A day later we had afternoon tickets for Tokyo Skytree, which is also a broadcast and observation tower, the tallest in Japan at 634 metres. And because it opened in 2012, visitors are more interested in coming here than Tokyo Tower.

Women in kimonos at Sensoji Temple

We first went to Sensoji Temple and it was packed with people, as it was a Sunday and beautiful weather, and most importantly sakura or cherry blossoms had bloomed. Many young women were dressed in kimono, but we could only tell where they were from when they opened their mouths -- some spoke Cantonese, others Mandarin. Then there were a few non-Asians who managed to squeeze into the kimonos, and one guy went barefoot, perhaps because there were no socks in his size...

They rented these outfits in order to have their pictures taken by professional photographers. 

Looking across the river we could see Tokyo Skytree in the distance and began walking towards it. Along the river are restaurants and cafes, while others sat on the grass or ground and had hamani, or picnics to appreciate the cherry blossoms.

We walked around 20 minutes and arrived at the base of Tokyo Skytree, which includes a shopping complex with various brands, and yes McDonald's, and other cafes.

Walking towards Tokyo Skytree
Luckily we decided to line up "early" for the 4pm slot because others had already begun standing in line. We soon realised that it zig-zagged around and it was quite the ordeal waiting for one of three or four high-speed elevators to get up to the observation deck. 

Finally after 4pm we finally made it to the front and allotted to an elevator where we had to wait for it to go up and then come down before opening its doors to collect us. We got the combo tickets where we could visit both observation decks at 350 metres and 450 metres. 

I could see how tiring it was for the staff to corral people all day, repeat the same spiel about Tokyo Skytree every 10 minutes or so and to bow as the elevator doors closed, then repeat. Again and again.

There was a tour group from India and they were able to bypass lines to get their own elevator spot; the Tokyo Skytree staff were used to this and gave them priority, making the rest of us wait another several minutes.

But once we were up on the 350-metre high deck, it was quite the sight. Seeing Tokyo by day it made me realise how many rivers there are snaking through the city, and as a result there are numerous bridges. 

The observation tower at 450 metres high
We could barely see what we going on down below, just tons of buildings like Lego bricks poking up from the ground and standing straight, while the curves of the river forced the structures to conform to the shape. The city stretched out as far as the eye could see, with a population of over 14 million. 

There were some glass skywalks inside, where there was nothing holding you up except the thick glass. Some found it scary, others exhilarating. 

One young woman was dressed up in a cosplay outfit so that she could take pictures at Skytree; many were willing to pay for the privilege.

We walked up an incline to get to the next elevator at 450 metres, but here it was even higher and everything looked even smaller down below. There were also more supports on the windows, which didn't give clear views for photographs.

Many rivers snake through the city
Getting back down was also an ordeal, again waiting in line for the next elevator, though once we were in (at the 350 metre level), we were warned we couldn't go back up again, and that was that. Lots of souvenir shops below, though none of them sold any printed guidebooks. 

Finally getting out of Skytree we were relieved to get away from the mass crowd of visitors. It must be so tiring for the staff dealing with so many people everyday.

Tuesday, April 1, 2025

Liberal Candidate Stands Down after Controversy

Chiang has stepped down running for the Liberals

The Canadian federal election has put Hong Kong on the spotlight after Liberal candidate Paul Chiang made controversial comments suggesting people turn in Conservative candidate Joe Tay because the Hong Kong government has a HK$1 million (US$128,500) bounty on his head.

Chiang made the suggestion during a Chinese-language press conference, saying: "To everyone here, you can claim the one-million-dollar bounty if you bring him to Toronto's Chinese consulate," he said, according to the Toronto Association for Democracy in China (TADC).

The activist group later released the translated comments to English media which quickly led to the embattled Chiang to apologise to Tay, who did not accept it, and then resulted in Chiang stepping down as a candidate despite Liberal leader Mark Carney's support for him.

HK government has HK$1M bounty on Tay
"As the prime minister and Team Canada work to stand up to President [Donald] Trump and protect our economy, I do not want there to be distractions in this critical moment," Chiang wrote on X, formerly known as Twitter just before 9pm Pacific Standard Time.

"That's why I'm standing aside as our 2025 candidate in our community of Markham-Unionville."

It's quite bizarre for Chiang to suggest turning in Tay because the Liberals have denounced the bounties.

At the time, Foreign Affairs Minister Melanie Joly said. in a statement in December: "This attempt by Hong Kong authorities to conduct transnational repression abroad, including by issuing threats, intimidation or coercion against Canadians or those in Canada, will not be tolerated." 

As a result, Cheuk Kwan, co-chair of the TADC called Chiang's comments "shocking."

"Mr Chiang openly encouraged people to assist in China interference and transnational repression," Kwan said in a statement. "Rather than protecting Canadians, he betrayed them and jeopardised their safety."

Kwan raised the alarm of Chiang to English media
Chiang regrets what he said, calling it "deplorable", but this just shows how desperate he was to play up to the local Chinese media outlets, all of them practically pro-China. It's outrageous of him to even suggest something like this, even though he is a former police officer. 

Needless to say it is extremely disappointing to have this coming from a Liberal candidate. Every vote counts and now there is no Liberal running in a big Chinese riding... did no one warn Chiang about the consequences of what he said?

In the meantime Tay, who is a former TVB actor, was originally running in Chiang's riding but is now hoping to represent Don Valley North. 

Tay probably caught the Hong Kong government's attention for his YouTube channel that promotes democracy and free speech. He is also the co-founder of Canada-based NGO HongKonger Station.

Conservative leader Pierre Polieve has totally taken advantage of the fiasco, and rightly added Tay is "afraid for his life."

Tay has also said online that he has not accepted Chiang's apology and has been in contact with the RCMP about personal protection.

In any event this raises the attention of Hong Kong's transnational repression of activists abroad yet again, and with Trump threatening to take over Canada to be the 51st state, Canadians need to be aware of how precious our democracy and rights are in these dangerous times. 

Sunday, March 30, 2025

Tokyo: Snoopy Museum


A family-friendly, fun place to visit

A friend and I have a mutual love of Snoopy. Mine goes back to when I was a child, reading the Peanuts comic strips and watching A Charlie Brown Christmas. The comics and characters reflected how kids felt at the time -- and they still hold up today! Snoopy projected our fantasies, from being able to dance to being the World War I Flying Ace shooting down the Red Baron. Oh and observations about cats and dogs were so true.

So when my friend told me about the Snoopy Museum in Tokyo I had to go visit. It is the only satellite museum affiliated with the Charles M Schultz Museum and Research Center in Santa Rosa, California.

One of the first Snoopy comic strips by Schultz
The Snoopy Museum Tokyo opened in 2016 and was located in Roppongi, but closed two years later and re-opened in the outskirts of Tokyo in Minami-machida Grandberry Park, a kind of outlet store outdoor shopping area in 2019. Just last February it finished renovations.

It takes about an hour to get to Grandberry Park, southwest of Tokyo, but once you get there you can see how appealing it is for families, with lots of outlet shops -- tax free for tourists -- and activities for children to do, as well as the Snoopy Museum.

There are Snoopy statues along the way to point you in the right direction, but soon you will come across a giant Snoopy with his mouth open, indicating the entrance to the museum. We got tickets online in advance, and in exchange we received paper tickets that were each Peanuts comic strips and two stickers too.

From there we were invited to go up to the third floor and work our way down. There are some rooms where we couldn't take pictures, as they were photographs of Charles Schultz as a child or family pictures, but other than that lots of large-scale comic strips that were reproduced.

Snoopy trying to hit a golf ball with an audience
There were also sections dedicated to each character, and themes like homework, the school bus, and baseball, introducing these from an American perspective. There was also a room with a massive sleeping Snoopy, and up on the rooftop garden lots of Snoopys watching one trying to hit a golf ball. 

Some of the comic strips were animated which was fun, like Charlie Brown watching TV, and Snoopy trying to get his attention and sleeping on top of his head; Charlie Brown gets annoyed and walks to the door, outside and flings Snoopy onto his red dog house to sleep.

Interestingly not much about A Charlie Brown Christmas, though a lot of jazz was played in the museum which made it relaxing to be in there.

And of course the other best part of the museum was the gift shop! All kinds of merchandise were available, but strangely no children's T-shirts, but lots of stuffed Snoopys, plastic folders, stickers, cookies, notebooks, key rings and so on.

Giant sleeping Snoopy... you can't touch though
If that wasn't enough, just outside the museum was the Snoopy Cafe where we had cups of latte in ceramic cups on plates that could be purchased in the cafe. The most popular item seemed to be the Charlie Brown milkshake, with a chocolate wave around the inside of the tall glass.

It was a fun trip down memory lane, but also impressive to see how Schultz's comics still stand the test of time!

Snoopy Museum Tokyo

Tsuruma 3-1-4, Machida-shi

Tokyo


Tokyo: Artist Ryuichi Sakamoto Revered


Many people lined up to see this exhibition

Today was the last day of the Ryuichi Sakamoto: Seeing Sound, Hearing Time exhibition at the Museum of Contemporary Art Tokyo and we managed to see it on the second last day. We had gotten tickets in advance so we were able to walk past the massive queue of people who were patiently waiting. They were mostly young people, and a few with young children and a handful of elderly.

My first introduction to the Japanese artist Sakamoto when he composed the soundtrack for The Last Emperor that came out in 1987. I was impressed by his work, and he indeed won an Academy Award for Best Original Score, the first Japanese composer to do so. 

Patterns made by vibrations
Other films he worked on include Merry Christmas, Mr Lawrence, The Sheltering Sky, Little Buddha, and The Revenant. Sakamoto didn't look down on anything -- he also composed music for video games and anime. 

The next time I learned more about him was in 2019 when the restaurant Araki opened in Heritage 1881 in Tsim Sha Tsui. Funded by Richard Li, the Japanese restaurant was helmed by chef Mitsushiro Araki, who made the entire dining experience a performance.

As guests filed into the restaurant, he was already there, deftly breaking down a giant chunk of tuna.

I later learned that the wooden countertop in the restaurant was gifted to Araki by Sakamoto.

In 2014 Sakamoto was diagnosed with throat cancer, and took a year long break, which led to cancer going into remission. However, in early 2021 he was diagnosed with rectal cancer, though he continued to work, even giving what was to be his final performance, Ryuichi Sakamoto: Opus in 2023 before he died that year on March 28.

So we attended the exhibition almost two years to the day of his death, which explains why so many people were at the museum. It seems the Japanese still revere him and want to continue paying their respects to him, much like how Hongkongers try to commemorate Leslie Cheung Kwok-wing's death on April 1.

Fog created by the water of immortality
The exhibition, Seeing Sound, Hearing Time, demonstrates Sakamoto's interest in combining music with technology, film and art and see where it goes. There were a few exhibits we were not allowed to film, but they seemed Daoist in nature.

Perhaps he was acutely aware of how much time he had left; one was a "film" where a poem was read out that suggested that life is like a dream. Another was a long horizontal video that showed lots of lines that eventually revealed a photograph, or a moving image of waves crashing onto rocks.

A small room had several photographs and videos group together that looked like an apartment -- was it Sakamoto's? But no one was there, though the kettle was on the stove, hot water boiling, the wind blowing leaves in another video, photographs of his music studio.

Meanwhile a large dark room had large square plexiglass suspended from the ceiling with water and smoke that was projected on the floor that showed different patterns of vibrations according to the music or sounds. 

Another room had a deconstructed piano that played random notes. But the final exhibit showed him performing at the piano when he was younger, and it is projected so that it looks like he is playing a real piano in front of us, the keys pressed down. It is as he wants us to remember him, younger, vibrant and expressive.

Sakamoto playing the piano
There was one exhibit that was interactive with visitors in the courtyard of the museum. At 20-minute intervals, people could interact with "fog", jets of water blown into the air to create "smoke", but really it's water.

The "fog" is the water of immortality, that is supposed to weave together with Sakamoto's music... the fog can be overwhelming, as at times you can't see anything, but you will be able to see people right in front of you. A few seconds later the fog subsides a bit, but the jets spray more water into the air again. For Hongkongers it could trigger the feeling of looking at tear gas, but it's not at all.

At the end, visitors can return inside and use paper towels to wipe themselves down if they so wish. How Japanese.

I'm glad I was able to see this exhibition, to learn more about Sakamoto and see how the Japanese still love him as an artist and want to be closer to him whenever possible.

Contemporary Museum of Art Tokyo
4-1-1 Miyoshi, Koto-ku
Tokyo

Saturday, March 29, 2025

TeamLab's Immersive Art Experience



Golden-coloured fish swim around the room

Yesterday morning we woke up relatively early to get to teamLab Borderless in Azabudai Hills, located in a swanky undulating building designed by Heatherwick Studios.

One could tell they were in the right vicinity with so many foreigners trying to figure out where teamLab Borderless was, as the signage only said "Digital art museum". But take the escalator down into the basement and around the corner painted on the ceiling was "teamLab Borderless".

Art is projected around the walls and floors
All visitors had to place all their belongings (except their phones) into lockers, including umbrellas, as it's quite dark inside and would be near impossible to find things. 

That's because teamLab is a collective that brings together art and technology that goes beyond a frame or wall. Images are projected on walls and floors, while mirrors are used extensively to give the impression of going on and on, or maximising special effects.

Visitors are told there is no specific route, and are encouraged to revisit rooms over and over as they will change completely over time. It's a completely immersive visual and audio experience that can overwhelm the senses and one can't but help try to record videos of everything. 

At the start there is a fun procession of mostly frogs on their hind legs, walking, with the odd rabbit. The frogs bring blessings and protect travellers, ensuring their safe return. Frogs are also related to prosperity. They were a recurring motif in some of the rooms.

Spheres give a feeling of limitlessness
Not all the projections were interactive, but fun nonetheless. One fun room had amateur drawings of sea life and it turned out to be contributions from visitors themselves. They were scanned and then projected on the walls moving around and if you "touched" them, they would move away. People were lining up to have a chance to draw something. Some put their names on the fish or whatever sea creature they drew so that they could easily identify them.

Another room was completely immersive, like being in a fantasy underwater scene, with a school of golden carp swimming in and around sea plants. My friend felt a bit dizzy, while I was transfixed by how fantastic it felt to be inside this other world.

We stopped for a tea break... one of the rooms is a tea house and so we ordered two cups of barley tea. We were ushered into a dark room where we sat in chairs that we easily slipped into sideways and then waited for the staff to prepare our drinks. She first came out with a glass bowl and then returned later to fill it with the tea that had an oat taste. But wait -- flowers were projected into the bowl and the petals began spreading behind the bowl and onto the table. Again more content you had to commemorate on video and post on social media.

Sea creatures drawn by visitors projected on walls
It's quite amazing that teamLab has several projects in Japan, like Tokyo, Osaka, and Fukuoka, as well as in Abu Dhabi, Singapore, Macau, and Miami. It probably get more fun to create as technology improves, though a lot of accurate set-up and production needs to be made to ensure a flawless execution.

A lot of manpower is needed just to control crowds or ensure visitors are OK, and all the staff speak English.

It's probably become a prestige thing to be able to say you have visited specific teamLab projects, though if you have had the chance to see one, then you can see what all the fuss is about. It's not what art purists may think is art, but it is certainly art for the masses that is extremely popular, beautiful and fun.

teamLab Borderless
Mori Building Digital Art Museum
Azabudai Hills Garden Plaza B1
5-9 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo

Friday, March 28, 2025

Shocking Myanmar Earthquake Hits Bangkok


A building under construction in Bangkok came crashing down

At around midday in central Myanmar, there was a shocking 7.7 magnitude earthquake that was felt as far away as Bangkok. It was horrific to see the initial videos coming out of the Thai capital, such as a tall office building that was being constructed came crashing down, water pouring from the top floor of the InterContinental Bangkok from the rooftop swimming pool, and a construction crane collapse and crash to the ground.

As I was just there over two weeks ago I immediately contacted people I knew in Bangkok. One told me that she and her colleagues had evacuated from their office building and were waiting outside. She said they were in complete shock.

Water pouring from rooftop pool during the quake
Chef Tonn, whose two restaurants I had visited, the Michelin-starred Le Du and highly acclaimed Nusara, posted a message on Instagram saying: "We are safe now in Bangkok. It was the biggest earthquake we experienced in our lifetime. Hope everyone is safe. We still [sic] on high alert for aftershocks. Thank you for all overwhelming messages and love. Me and my family ok for now."

He had just returned from Seoul where he attended the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants awards, where Le Du was ranked no. 20 and Nusara at no. 6.

My friend and I were thinking we were so lucky we were not in Bangkok during the earthquake -- imagine what it would have been like being on the top floor of the Empire Centre where Le Du Kaan, a bar/restaurant and Chinese restaurant K by Vicky Cheng are located.

Not to mention being on the 77th floor of Mahanakhorn which was reportedly swaying during the earthquake!

However there are some silver linings... an American chef I know who has three restaurants in Bangkok told me that because people cannot return to their hotels or condos in tall buildings, his dining establishments are packed tonight. Wonder if they will have to stay the night in his restaurants too!

So far around 117 people are missing, five confirmed dead in Bangkok, while the military government in Myanmar says 144 people have died, and 732 injured.

Hope survivors will be found, and that aftershocks won't be too severe...

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