Review: Creative Flavour Profiles at One-Star AnnaLena

Kaw's Michelin statue with the star at AnnaLena

My quest to visit (almost) all the Michelin-starred restaurants in Vancouver is close to completion.

Earlier this week I managed to score a table at AnnaLena in Kitsilano and the one-starred Michelin restaurant had just changed its menu too.

It's located on a quiet street with other casual restaurants, cafes and an ice cream bar shop. If I wasn't so full I would have wanted to check it out!

Fingerling potato with parmesan foam

Inside AnnaLena diners are greeted with a small statue of irreverent artist Kaws' version of the Michelin man and the coveted one star. The place is minimalist, contemporary, with bar seating by the open kitchen, but we opted for seats at a table. 

As I waited for my dining companion, I sipped on a non-alcoholic drink called "Plannin' on stackin'", which was a refreshing berry concoction of zero-proof "gin", with raspberry and lemon at the quite steep price of C$13.

When my foodie friend arrived, our server introduced the menu, and interestingly the restaurant tries to upsell the set menu with add-ons. For example, the second course could have shrimp for an extra price, while the lamb rack could be substituted with Japanese wagyu beef for a big chunk of change.

We said we'd have the menu as the chef intended...

Rich, oily bread course with leek and ramp

Two snacks appeared to whet our appetites. The first was a fingerling potato topped with a raspberry and beet savoury sauce a billowy creamy parmesan cheese foam that was quite delightful.

Another snack were miniature burgers with foie gras mousse in the middle with finely julienne carrots and cilantro leaves. So far so good.

The first course was turnip and radish crudite, the small plump root vegetables were quartered at the bottom of the bowl, covered in the crudite sauce, followed by a burrata creme fraiche, black garlic and a "crouton" -- a thin slice of roasted bread covered in charcoal.

Next came a bread course. It looked like a toasted iceberg sitting in a green pond decorated with vegetables. We were encouraged to break off the bread pieces with our hands and dip it in the leek and ramp veloute, that included meaty king oyster mushrooms and green garlic.

Lamb rack, lamb belly and asparagus

The bread was very oily and I would have appreciated a wet towel to wipe my hands after. It was also quite a filling dish. The sauce was delicious but quite rich, while the bread quickly filled the stomach.

Another plate of carbs followed in the form of cacio e pepe spaghettini, a small enough portion with smoked squid and XO sauce. What?! Had they appropriated Chinese XO sauce? But the slight spicy kick worked well and worth considering putting XO sauce on all pastas in the future.

The main course of lamb rack was actually two small portions of lamb, one piece deboned, the other fried lamb belly in a croquette. The lamb was very tender and juicy, the lamb belly tasted decadent.

By now we were quite full, but curious about the green apple dessert. It turns out to be a creative deconstruction of apple pie and we felt this was the strongest dish in terms of the melding of flavours seamlessly.

Deconstructed apple pie with miso ice cream

At the bottom were the subtly cinnamon-seasoned diced green apple, an almond financier, maple caramel and the whole thing topped with a giant dollop of miso ice cream. It was dreamy to eat this dessert, soft, slightly crunchy, room temperature, cold, tangy and sweet.

If that wasn't enough, AnnaLena makes sure you are super full with petit fours -- served on the sole of a Nike Air sneaker! Actually it's a plaster mould of the sole and it really takes you for a loop! On it were mini foie gras rice krispie squares, and they do have a subtle hint of that umami flavour, while the berry jelly was lightly dusted with milk powder.

At C$98 per person it's high-end dining for sure. Despite my criticisms the dining experience was enjoyable and more refined than say, Barbara. 

The last two Michelin-starred restaurants on my list are Masayoshi, which has an eye-watering C$200 charge per person! And iDen & Quanjude Beijing Duck House that charges and arm and a leg for roast duck...

Petit fours served on the sole of a Nike sneaker

AnnaLena

1809 West 1st Avenue

Vancouver, BC

778 379 4052